tekniknya dengan memberikan penyinaran khusus dengan menempatkan lampu di depan akuarium, sehingga langsung kena sisik2 aro agar terpigmentasi. lampu yang umum digunakan adalah lampu dengan spectrum UV A & B yang tinggi dan dengan intensitas 10.000 kelvin - 16.000 kelvin.
Biasanya dilakukan menggunakan lampu 30wt-40wt, tergantung besar aquarium.
alat yang dipakai untuk melakukan tanning jelas : selain matahari (direct sunlight)
# Jenis rumahnyanya :
1. Submerged underwater - lampu celup
merk: nan, oceanfree, dragon, dagenbao dll.
2. PL - bisa diletakan diatas-samping akuarium
merk: lifetech, jebo, boyu dll
ato klo ada jenis lain tanpa merek gpp ko, tp rata2 buat underwaterlamp bermerk semua.
# Jenis lampu: UV
1. plant growth(PG):
6.000 - 8.500 kelvin (warna cenderung merah)2. actinic blue(AB): 10.000 - 22.000 kelvin(warna cenderung biru)
merk: TFC, hagen, sylvania, Arcadia,Toshiba, Hitachi, Dagenbao, Resun, philips dll.
# posisi lampu atau tanning area yang lazim digunakan
single area tanning : area tanning bisa dari kap atas akuarium saja ato dari arah samping kaca akuarium(nempel).
double area tanning : area tanning dari samping kaca & atas akuarium
tips:
- full tanning sebaiknya setelah ukuran 25cm-up, nunggu mental aro stabil
- biasanya para aromania gunakan kombinasi lampu antara PG & actinic blue dgn perbandingan 2:1 cth: PG 40 watt AB: 20 watt. Klo kaya gini ga perlu pake heater lg…uda cukup hot hehehehe
- tanning time plng lama 12- jam lah…gosong ntar aronya
- jgn gunakan TL putih biasa, biasanya aro mudah stress
- lampu PG yang baik bisa bikin kaca lumutan
begini katanya :
- Type casing brdasarkan bisa ato tidak-nya dicelup di air :
1. Submersible yaitu casing/lampu yg dapat ditempatkan didalam air.
2. non Submersible yaitu casing yg hanya dapat diletakan diluar air, dan untuk casing/reflektor ini bisa beli yg pabrikan dan jg dibuat sendiri ato DIY (Do It Yourself).
- Lampu dapat dibedakan berdasarkan Watt, Kelvin, Lumens dan Type Lampu (TL/T8, T5 HO, PL etc).
- Type Lampu ,untuk pemilihan bisa didasarkan terlebih dahulu dari Type Lampu yg dikehendaki, ketersediaan-nya di Pasaran Sekitar, dan casing-nya.
sebagai gambaran :
TL/T8 adl type lampu standard yg bnyak dipasaran, karena type ini biasanya jg digunakan untuk penerangan umum (rumah, kantor dll), type T8 ini yg tersedia untuk penerangan umum (osram, philips dll) biasanya lebih panjang smp dengan 1cm daripada lampu yg mmg produsen unt aquarium (Jebo, Resun, Boyu, Nisso, Sylvania, TFC, Hitachi dll). Lampu ini masing2 sisi ada 2 pin.
T5 HO adl type lampu dgn bentuk mirip T8 akan tetapi dengan efisiensi dan diameter lampu yg lebih Slim.
PL adalah lampu type baru dengan efisiensi watt yg lebih baik dibanding TL dan ada yg 2 pin dan 4 pin (Philips, Osram, Dymax dll).
- Watt : untuk aro biasanya di dasarkan atas panjang aquarium dan level terang yg dikehendaki, contoh :
- Type Lampu TL(T8/T5 HO) :
18-20 watt = +- 60cm,
30watt = +- 90cm,
40watt = +- 120cm,
- Type Lampu PL 4 pin :
24 watt = +- 20cm,
36 watt = +- 40cm.
- Kelvin : temperatur warna, adalah Spektrum warna dominan yg dipancarkan oleh lampu selain spektrum warna yg lain yg jg diproduksi oleh lampu tsb, jika cahaya masuk dari udara ke dalam air maka pada kedalaman air 60 cm, smua spektrum yg dipancarkan dr lampu dapat terdistribusi,
contoh :
lampu 2700 K= berwarna Kuning, 4700K= berwana pink/merah, 6500K= Putih, 10000K= putih kebiruan, >10000K= biru.
- Lumens : Intensitas cahaya yg dipancarkan per 1 meter persegi, biasanya untuk berbeda watt lumens tidak jauh berbeda, akan tetapi akan naik signifikan lumens-nya di aquarium jika ditambahkan jumlah lampu-nya.
- Jadi untuk lampu hanya untuk Viewing bisa di analogikan urutan pemilihan-nya sbb :
1. Jenis Aro. Tp ini jg tergantung selera images/smilies/011.gif .
2. ukuran akuarium. dari ukuran ini nanti akan ada ukuran watt yg diperlukan dan jumlah-nya lampu.
3. Jenis lampu yg di inginkan dan merk.
4. casing/reflektor yg di inginkan.
Aro colouration and food
We all know feeding mp and carotene based food are good for our aros. I was curious and think you would too, would like to find out more on the development of colouration of our aros. Be it pearl, silver, green, banjar, red, xb, etc.. How does the aro scales produce colours and what food and why its good for colouration.
Below are 2 articles that I've came across during my search on this topic.
Coloration is controlled by the endocrine and nervous system, but dietary sources of pigment also play a role in determining color in fishes. The endocrine and nervous system both influence coloration in fish. The pituitary gland secretes hormones that direct the production and storage of pigments throughout the life of a fish, and particularly as maturity is reached. Pigment production and storage often increases at the onset of maturity. Many species use color to provide camouflage and attract a mate. The autonomic nervous system directs rapid color changes in response to stimuli such as a predator or an aggressive tankmate. Anyone who has observed fish knows this color change can occur at a spectacular rate.
Specialized pigment containing cells called chromatophores are located beneath the scales. These cells are branched, permitting pigment granules to be near or away from the surface and aggregated or dispersed. These cells are the reason for the variable and sometimes rapid changes in fish color. Additionally, colorless purine crystals are contained in specialized chromatophores called iridophores. These crystals are too large to move in the iridophores but are stacked to provide a reflecting surface and the base or structural coloration of fishes. The iridophores are responsible for the silver sheen, particularly of small pelagic fish. These cells are capable reflectors of light and are responsible for the counter shading effect where fish appear darker when viewed from above and lighter when viewed from below. This mechanism helps detour predation.
Pigments are characterized by their colors. Carotenoid pigments are red and orange. Xanthophylls are yellow. Melanin pigments are black and brown. Phycocyanin is the blue pigment derived from blue-green algae. Cells containing yellow pigments overlying those containing blue pigments can produce green hues. Fish are capable of producing some pigments, but others must be supplied in the diet. Black and brown pigments are produced in cells called melanocytes. Fish are incapable of producing carotenoid and xanthophyll pigments. Therefore, these must be supplied in the diet.
Spirulina algae is a source of pigments to enhance blues.
Natural sources of pigments are available in the diets of most fish. Color enhancing diets may contain additional natural pigments to enhance colors of ornamental fishes. The carotenoid pigment found in most marine and a few freshwater invertebrates is astaxanthin. This pigment gives the characteristic color to the flesh of salmon and is available in the diet of aquarium fish in shrimp and krill meals and salmon (fish) meal used as sources of protein in some feeds. Pure astaxanthin or canthaxanthin (synthetic astaxanthin) may also be added to fish feed to enhance red and orange coloration. Xanthophylls (yellow pigments) are found in corn gluten meal and dried egg that may be added to the diet to enhance yellows. The ground petals of marigold flowers have also been used as a source of xanthophylls. The blue-green algae spirulina is a rich source of phycocyanin and may be added to a diet to enhance blue coloration. The expense of supplementary pigments often limits the amount used in tropical fish feeds. These natural sources of pigments are in contrast to several methods routinely used to enhance colors of ornamental fish.
Genetics
Let's just take the colour red as an example. Colour is produced in a similar way to photographs in newspaper where from a distance, a photograph will look detailed, well defined, and clear. Yet under closer examination, particularly through a magnifying glass, the picture consists of thousands of tiny dots of ink, each working together to produce a picture of dark and light areas. Skin pigmentation is caused by dots (colour cells called chromatophores) the intensity of which is determined by how densely the dots are packed and how intensely each dot is coloured.
An aro's genetic code will determine both factors, with the role of colour enhancement through feeding only being able to improve the colour of each colour cell (rather than increase their density in the skin). However, there is always hope as that same genetic code will also code for colour development where pattern and the appearance of other chromatophores may develop in the future.
Carotenoids are the massive group of colour enhancing compounds that are stored and exhibited in a fish. They are a group of chemicals that impart colour by the way they absorb and reflect light. Those that refract higher wavelengths of light (reds)are more desirable than those that refract the lower end of the spectrum (yellow). They are organic in nature, and are very closely related to Vitamin A, and similar in structure to vitamin E. Due to their similarity in chemical structure to these 2 vitamins, they behave in a similar way in living tissue, being very reactive and unstable, easily degraded in oxygen heat and light.
As carotenoids do degenerate over time, in the same way that a leaking bucket needs to be topped up to keep it full, koi require a constant supply of carotenoids to keep the chromatophores packed with carotenoids.
Many different organisms (including shrimp, krill and koi) have the ability to convert certain pigments into others. Shrimp and krill are marine crustacea, and are renowned for their red pigmentation caused by the carotenoid astaxanthin. However, these filter feeding organisms feed on marine algae that is suspended in the water (and definitely not pink!), converting a range of pigments (carotene, lutein, and zeaxanthin) into the red pigment astaxanthin.
Natural sources:
There are several recognised natural sources of carotenoids suitable for colour enhancement. Like any natural commodity, qualities and pigment content can vary from source to source, and being organic, can be liable to degradation during food manufacture. However, natural sources are also renowned for offering a superb range of carotenoids. For example, marigold petals have more than 20 different carotenoids. They also have a high concentration of these compounds (approximately 9000mg per kilo), whereas shrimp or krill meal will only have about 200mg per kilo, with the added issue of the exoskeletal material have an exceedingly high ash content.
Good natural sources of red pigmentation include shrimp, prawn and krill, with similar red pigments found in high quantities in red peppers (paprika).
reference 1: Jason Selong
reference 2: Pond Doctor Answers
guide to Tanning Regime
Part 1: The Beginning of a New Start
Conditioning - it would be best to add some K leaves into the tank and increase the lighting intensity gradually over the days...users could use 3 / 6 / 9 / 12 / 24 hrs intervals as a guiding point
Slime Coat Observation - Slime coat is a physical marker for tanning users to observe the stress level of the reds in the tanning process...if users notice a substantial loss of slime coat, its best to add in some aloe vera extract or epsom salt in terms of restoring the protective coating for the reds
Part 2: The When, Where, What and How to go about Tanning
Size suitable for tanning - there is no specific sizes which is the minimum or maximum age for tanning. As long as there is a sign for blushing of colors can be observed on the red, it is deemed to be suitable for tanning.
Position and angle of lights - the recommended position and angle of tanning lights is at the front of the tank, about 5cm under water...or the best level to place the light is the zone where the red frequently swims
Types of tanning lights to use - there are various lights tat can be utilise for the purpose of tanning...namely to mention a few: Arcadia D3, PL lights, Dennerle plant tubes, T5HO and Metal Halide sets. Primarily it would be advisable to start with a PL light set as it is not too intense as the last few lights mentioned...
Part 3: Push up and Hold Up the colors
Push up colors - if the process of Identifying the color blush stage is accurate, tanning will enhance the process and quicken the process of coloration fill up...Fast or slow depends on the spectrum and intensity of tubes used
Hold Up of colors - Tanning is a stimulating process for the reds to enhance production of chromatophores...in layers and in terms of intensity...it is making use of the concept of contrasting...ie. it makes the base colors of the red intensity hence enabling the better distinction between the rim color and the scale base...Tanning process must not be abruptly halt or else users may see the immediate fade of the colors which was "pushed up" previously...all things being equal...it has to be slowed down and reduce in intensity until finally back to the use of normal room light to ensure the proper acclimatising and stablising of colors
Part 4: Frequent Encounters of problems if technique is used wrongly
Slant swimming posture - If the red is not accustomed to the lights to be used, users may observed their red swimming in a slant manner...the only way to counter this measure is to put a light tube at the back of the tank shinning front to make the two sides of the aro gets even lighting
Cloudy Eyes - this is one of the comments passed by a user, personally during my experiment with >10 pcs of reds altogether, it has never occurred. The primary assumptions which users must establish is to have Good water parameters. Cloudy eyes generally is associated with physical scratches or bad water conditions
Appetite Loss - This again has to do with the way the users acclimatise their reds to the tanning regime...if suddenly intensified lights are shone at them, weak-hearted reds will display stress and lose their appetite altogether
Blind?? - This is one of the commonly asked question with regards to the tanning regime...please bear in mind fish sleep with their eyes open...internally there would be filters to block off the excessive lights which may damaged their "cornea" (if they have one - sorry I am not a biologist cannot confirm on the cornea thingy)...up to date I have tested with various light set not exceeding 10,000 lumens equivalent of brightness, going beyond tat range I cannot guarantee safety...the general mkt equipment of PL, T8, T5 all falls below tat marking
Part 5: Additives and special tools
Ketapang leaves - these are needed in terms of the initial kick start process as the tanins within the leaves will slowly emit and allow the readjustment of the water parameters to one tat favours the reds
S7 - commonly used in the planted community together with TR7 so as to provide trace elements in the enclosed tank. This is also common with those trying to enhance the appetite of the reds (reds being picky eaters will be choosy and temperaments changes as they grow)
Bubbles - is used as general guide on how the tank water fares...too much foam on the water level is an indicative sign of potentially bad water...suspended sediments or particles likewise
Epsom Salt - Initial clinical use is to assist the fish to clear their stomach...it is also helpful in regeneration of slim coat on the scales...should not be used excessively...only when there are suspected "dryness" on the scales observed
Part 6: Myths and Fairy Tales
Color in 1 day?? - this is one of most tricky part of tanning which many would swear and curse...cos some would see their red deepening in terms of 1 week or 2 weeks or some in 3 mths no effect even when they are doing the same thing
the general rule of thumb as observed from the tanning experiment, a "normal" SR should come in color within 3 weeks...excluding the time u need to recondition the red if it was in a bad water parameters and ur current tank settings is one tat varies from day to day
If someone tells u they can push color in a day, they are playing with timing...cos one red tat shows sporadic coloration (spots along the rims of their scales) is easier to push than one tat is super whitish in base and scale
the tanning lights merely helps to PUSH out the color, the chromatophores is already existing there to be expounded on
Turn Red after tanning? - I have started tanning experiment in aid to give those so called Cannot Make It reds...its not a magical trick or Photoshop tactics
What tanning done is to amplify the melanophores (black pigments) on the scales making whatever light yellow to dark yellow, light orange to dark orange, light pink to dark pink...tats about all tanning can do in a stage of color blooming...if u want to transcend one level of colors, u must attack the scales when it is of the right timing...
The More the Better? - many users seem to think tat by adding as many light as possible infront of the red will make them red faster...in the contrary, this makes the red very jumpy and overly stressed up...In the end it will slow down the process...same logic in weights training, train with more weights doesnt guarantee powerful pecs if done in the slipslod manner
An Old saying,
there were 3 types of ppl
those who make things happened
those who see things happened
those who ask wat happened?
My theory is:
there were 3 kinds of red
those red tat no need light Can Make it
those red tat NEED Light to Make it
those red whose Owners think they CANNOT MAKE IT
Part 7: Water and its relation with reds
What is considered good water?
Water surface - no accumulation of bubbles at the water mark
In the water - no suspended particle
or in more scientific terms TDS readings....ORP readings could be used as a basic gauge for ur water parameters
Water circulation - A good gauge of the water circulation or flow should be observed by looking out for blind spots or dead spots...a space which water is stagnant is not beneficial for the reds although too much agitation of the water surface is also not recommeded
Filtration basis - Biological should be the primary concerns for reds as it is curcial for the bacteria colony to be able to handle the bioload without the need of too frequent water changes...too much changes to the overall water parameters stressed up the reds and impede the coloration cycle
Sometimes doesnt mean we need extremely clean water to keep gd reds, a gd reds being genetically superior will show their color even in a clear tank...the old method of bubble filter if the user is advanced enuff to observe water and tell the condition could be the most potent filter too...esp with the inclusion of sand as part of the filters
Reds is about STABILITY...
Part 8: Secrets of light
Color Warmth
I will say this one time and one time only...mimic the sun is not wat the tanning regime should do
if u want to use sunshine --> 6500k is sufficient but it will take u long time to see the difference or rather not much difference if u are doing it at the wrong timing too
my preferred kelvins is > 10000k tats the range I operating on
Tanning duration:
Tanning is preferably be conducted over a period of 3 weeks minimum with 24 hrs full blast as the prime time zone...the initial startup phase will not be included...the initial phase will only lead the scales to slowly react to the effect of light
Tanning make use of light to stimulate the neurological emission of the color hormones
When to Stop:
The time to stop falls into 2 category:
1. Stress - if the red display too much stress and it has problems with coping with the extreme light...Do stop and go through ur checklist again and see wat needs to be finetune
a. Water? (check ur nitrates...if need wc do a 5%)
b. Timing? (is it the right time?)
c. Feeding? (Am I feeding too much?) Tanning and pumping cannot go hand in hand...there is only so much the red could do in a short span...concentrate on one task before trying to multitask the poor bugger
2. Enuff is Enuff - there is only so much to do to a specific level of color, there is an end to the tanning capability to push the colors...If users observe tat there are no "new" spots of colors appearing on rims or scales, its time to slowly step down the color intensity
referal : kagemaru
Chromatophores basically are color pigments responsible for the colors we see on the fish. It can further be sub-divided into xanthophores(yellow), erythrophores (red) and melanophores (black/brown) ..etc
Of course there are other classes of chromatophores but this 3 would be our main area of interest.
By tanning with UV <380nm, we would expect melanophores pigments dispersion thus darkening of the fish.
Here's the spectra absorption chart for xanthophores(yellow) pigments.
There is an absorption peak at the 450nm and 475nm.
Assuming that we want to bring out the max effectiveness of bringing out the yellow/gold color, we should be tanning the fish with a light source that is peaking between 450-475nm. However, if we were to tan solely with a monochromatic light with a very narrow wavelength at 450-475nm. The fish would appear dark/black as most of the light is being absorbed and not reflected.
While this would make a very good tanning light, it would not be a good viewing light as it does not reflect the yellow/gold color we want to see.
Take a look at the spectrum chart of the various bulbs produced by ushio.
If we were to tan the fish using a 20000K bulb, the tanning effect would be at its maximum but viewing at its worst as there is not enough yellow ~580nm light to be reflected back into our eyes causing the fish to look black.
The ideal tanning light would be one that peaks at the max spectra absorption 450-475nm and at the same time peaks at the yellow spectrum. Which in this case would be the 14000K bulb as it gives out less UV (<380nm) thus reducing melanophores activity.
My conclusion?
I personally feel that tanning with UV while will also bring out the other color pigments(spectra absorption is not an absolute value but a range with max absorption at a certain wavelength), melanophores(black) would be at its max absorption. With black as its dominant color, it would overshadow other color pigments.
This might also explain why NAN lights(mainly red spectrum) makes the fish look so red(reflect red light back to our eyes) but does very little for the actual tanning of fish.
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